Peace in the Clouds: My Godly Tour to Batu Caves, Malaysia.
By Nivas
You travel to see the world sometimes and sometimes you travel to discover yourself. My last visit to Malaysia was both of that, however, nothing could prepare me to the overwhelming feeling of peace and power that I experienced when standing at the base of the limestone giant, which is Batu Caves.
When you go through Instagram, you have likely come across the photos: a giant golden statue, steps of rainbow color, and monkeys swinging. But I say to you--there is no photo which can give the vibration of this place. It was not a sightseeing tour, but a spiritual re-set.
The First Glimpse: Gold on the Blue Sky.
When my taxi arrived at the Gombak district, the initial impression I got was not the heat but the sheer size of the Lord Murugan statue. It is the tallest Murugan statue in the world and it measures 140 feet (42.7 meters).
Something has a grounding effect on seeing him. The gold painting is so shiny when contrasted to the tropical blue sky that you have to strain your eyes. I was small before I took a step, not badly, but in a reassuring way when you know that your such-and-such worries are minute in comparison with the universe.
It reminded me of the powerful Tamil saying:
"Yamirukka Bayamen?" (யாமிருக்க பயமேன்?)
"Why fear when I am here?"
I took a deep breath, and just like that, the anxiety of travel melted away.
There I stood looking up at that magnificent Vel (spear), and I found myself feeling that the fear and anxiety are simply evaporating.
The Climb: 272 Steps to Serenity
And now we are going to discuss the famous 272 steps.
I can say I was a little scared. The stair is sharp and rather colorful (a new element that brings such delight to the location) painted in the rainbow hues. However, when I began climbing, the workout began to have a bizarrely meditative quality.
My breathing became more difficult at around step 50, but so did my concentration. At a point of about 150, I stopped to see what had happened. The Kuala Lumpur skyline sight was splendid. And the monkeys also, of course! They are the mischievous priests of the temple. It was a smile to see them peeling bananas and leaping with a handicap on railing to railing. This was a little admonition to the fact that here nature and divinity coexist.
Entering the Cave: The Silence Speaks
Once you are up the mountain and set foot on the Temple Cave (or the Cathedral Cave, as it is also known), the mood changes instantly.
The noise and humidity of the city are forgotten. Inside, the air is cooler. The roof is 100 meters tall and it is naturally created in 400 million years. The light of the sun is brought through the holes in the rock roof, providing natural spotlights to the shrines underneath.
Here I experienced it--the Power.
It wasn't a loud or scary power. It was an oppressive, soothing silence. The cave was silent even in the presence of other tourists. I was able to hear the sound of a distant pooja bell and some low chanting of
"Vetri Vel, Veera Vel" (வெற்றி வேல், வீர வேல்).
I sat on a cool boulder before the chief shrine a few moments. I shut my eyes and took my breath. The cave was like it was holding some space so that I could release my stress.
When I was saying a little prayer I recalled another beautiful Tamil line:
"Kallilum Mullilum Kandan Irrupan."
"Lord Murugan resides even in the stone and the thorn."
You see that the divinity is not only in the statue, but also in the walls of the rocks, the falling water and the air you breathe in that cave.
Why You Must Visit
Batu Caves is not another tourist trap on your list. It is a place to recharge.
The Stillness: Could you believe the noise is swallowed up by the vastness of the cave and you are left in calmness.
The Culture: The sight of believers walking with Kavadis or having yellow pots of milk on their feet are a painful lesson of the strength of belief.
The Beauty: The contrast between the rude limestone walls and the decorative and colorful Hindu idols is a masterpiece.
The Story Behind the Stone: A Human History of Batu Caves
If you think Batu Caves is old, you are underestimating it. The limestone hill you see today was actually formed around 400 million years ago. Long before it was a tourist spot, these caves were used as natural shelters by the indigenous Orang Asli people and later by farmers collecting bat guano (fertilizer).
But the transformation from a "jungle cave" to a "divine temple" began with one man’s vision.
The Vision of the Spear In the late 1800s, an influential Indian trader named K. Thamboosamy Pillai visited the caves. He stood at the bottom looking up at the massive cave entrance and realized it was shaped exactly like the "Vel"—the divine spear carried by Lord Murugan.
To him, this wasn't just a rock formation; it was a sign. Inspired by this divine coincidence, he decided to dedicate this place to Lord Murugan. He installed a consecrated idol (murti) inside the high cave, and by 1892, the very first Thaipusam festival was celebrated here.
The Evolution of the Climb Believe it or not, the early devotees didn't have the luxury of concrete stairs. They had to scramble up the steep rocks!
1920: The first wooden staircase was built to help pilgrims reach the top.
1940: The wood was replaced by 272 concrete steps because the wooden ones couldn't handle the crowds.
2018: The steps were painted in the vibrant "Rainbow" colors you see today, turning a grey staircase into a global icon.
The Golden Giant The most famous part of Batu Caves—the colossal golden statue—is actually a recent addition. It was unveiled in 2006. It took 3 years, 250 tons of steel, and 300 liters of gold paint to create this 140-foot masterpiece, which now stands as the tallest Murugan statue in the world.
My Final Thoughts
I was now making the 272 steps downhill, and I found myself lighter than when I had made the same walk uphill. My legs were not quite straight (it is a workout!), and my heart was full.
When you are lost, stressed or just want a "pause" button, get a ticket to Kuala Lumpur. Go to Batu Caves. Climb the steps. Sit in the cave.
Let the location cure you.
Have you visited Batu Caves? Did you feel the energy too? Answer me in the comments below!
Travel Tips that Peace Seekers should take into consideration:
Go Early: Be there early enough not to be caught in the heat or traffic: 7:00 AM. The steps will be virtually yours to yourself.
Dress Decently: You must remember it is a temple. Knees and shoulders need to be covered.
Watch Out Snacks: The monkeys are very adorable but they eat your food. Keep water bottles hidden!
Om Saravana Bhava. 🙏
Quick Tips for Your Visit:
Go Early: Trust me, arrive by 7:00 AM. You beat the heat, and you get the steps almost to yourself.
Dress Respectfully: This is a temple first, tourist spot second. Cover your shoulders and knees (sarongs are available for rent if you forget!).
Hide Your Snacks: The monkeys are cute, but they are professional thieves! Keep water bottles and food inside your bag.
Have you visited Batu Caves? Did you feel the energy too? Let me know in the comments below!
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